I lastly did it. After years of saving photographs and telling myself “sooner or later,” I landed in Europe’s most well-known walled metropolis… effectively, virtually.
On method, the wind (locals name it the bura) kicked up, the pilot waved off the touchdown, and we had been despatched all the way in which again to Vienna. Cue an sudden in a single day in Warsaw, a misplaced carry‑on with all my garments, and the sort of journey chaos that will usually derail a visit.
However right here’s the factor: one drive previous these sea partitions, with the stone glowing and the water turning each shade of blue, and I finished caring about my stuff. I used to be simply giddy to be there.
That first exhale occurred the second I walked into Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik.
It’s carved into the cliff with a glass elevator and massive, cinematic bay views, even from my first‑ground room. The crew was so type; they actually handed me a map marked with close by retailers so I might change just a few necessities.
The very very first thing I did once I acquired to my room was stroll straight to the balcony. Anytime I am at a property with a view it’s the very first thing I wish to see, and Resort Bellevue doesn’t disappoint!
The views overlooking the resort’s very personal seashore cove are gorgeous and I spent quite a lot of time on my balcony the remainder of the journey.
After soaking within the view, I became the one outfit I had, walked down towards the harbor, and let town do its factor.
The climate was excellent, the core is walkable, and it’s a straightforward place to wander, even when, huge image, Dubrovnik could be a little extra automobile‑dependent than some European capitals.
Over a packed few days I ate, sailed, cooked, and wandered my method by means of the area, and 5 issues particularly blew me away: the posh, the meals, the wine, the folks, and the wonder.
Right here’s precisely the way it unfolded, and learn how to copy one of the best elements in your personal journey.
1) THE LUXURY — A Seamless Base With Severe Views
If you need a no‑stress Dubrovnik, base your self with Adriatic Luxury Hotels (ALH) and let the community do the heavy lifting.
I stayed at Resort Bellevue, which instantly turned my joyful place. Think about waking up, stepping onto your balcony, and getting an ocean‑panorama slap of “I’m truly right here.”
The rooms are fashionable and calm, the spa is ideal for a wet afternoon reset, and people glass elevators… you float down the cliff like a film scene.
What shocked me most was how effectively a single‑base technique works right here.
From Bellevue, Previous City is a fast experience or a barely longer however very doable stroll; island day journeys are easy to arrange; wine nation is a straightforward half‑day; and the resort’s personal Vapor restaurant is a real wonderful‑eating choice when the climate turns otherwise you simply wish to hold it shut.
One night time we deliberate to eat in Previous City, however the skies opened and we pivoted to Vapor. Zero regrets! The meals and repair had been as polished as any “vacation spot restaurant.”
2) THE FOOD — From Competition Menus To Farmhouse Fireplace
This journey was initially constructed round a culinary theme, and Dubrovnik over‑delivered.
I arrived simply in time for Style the Mediterranean at Hotel Excelsior (one other ALH property, and simply on my record for a future keep). Evening Two introduced a collaboration between cooks Beatriz Gonzalez and Petar Obad, and it was a blast.
That they had me on the seafood course: an octopus dish with blue potato cream and a shiny pop of orange that simply sang of the Adriatic. (I imply simply take a look at the pic beneath, does it not make you hungry?)
And dessert? A cacao symphony layered with Mexican vanilla, cacao‑bean ice cream, and caramelized pecans… a type of “don’t speak to me whereas I’m consuming this” moments.
In the event you see the pageant in your dates, e-book it.
If not, don’t fear, Vapor’s seasonal tasting menu scratches the identical itch, and you may hold evenings walkably easy.
On the country facet, I lastly tried peka, that sluggish‑cooked, beneath‑the‑coals Croatian basic.
We went to Konoba Dubrava on a wet day and ordered it forward (you have to name upfront as a result of it takes hours).
Assume pot roast’s richer, smokier cousin. Meat and potatoes melting into one another in the absolute best method. Completely value planning for.
After which there’s the ocean‑to‑desk second that Dubrovnik does so effectively: oysters in Mali Ston Bay.
You boat out to floating platforms, find out how they’re farmed, after which slurp the freshest oysters with a crisp white wine proper there over the water.
It’s easy, it’s enjoyable, and people views again towards Mali Ston are postcard‑degree.
3) THE WINE — A Quiet Heavyweight You Don’t See Coming
I’ve sipped my method by means of elements of France and didn’t count on Croatia to shock me like this. However the Pelješac peninsula completely did.
Plavac Mali reds with construction and solar; Dubrovacka Malvasija whites that pair superbly with seafood; and small, passionate producers like Miloš Winery who pour with a narrative. In the event you’re already out in Ston/Mali Ston for oysters, cap the loop with a close-by tasting, it’s such a relaxed method to finish the day.
I used to be a bit drained from the longer day and time change and nonetheless perked up for the pours, particularly a rosé that was unusually expressive and layered. Even drained, I used to be like, “Okay, that’s particular!”
Again within the metropolis, ask your somm for native pairings at dinner. You’ll get a quick training and a deeper connection to what’s in your plate. And for a very particular expertise with a really educated sommelier, e-book a wine tasting at Hotel Supetar.
4) THE PEOPLE — 10 Generations Of Welcome
In all places I went, folks had been joyful we had been there. It wasn’t performative; it was heat, direct, and unhurried in one of the simplest ways.
Nowhere confirmed that higher than Kameni Dvori in Konavle, the place we did a fingers‑on Backyard‑to‑Desk cooking class.
We kneaded bread whereas it rained, toured their backyard for herbs and greens, collected eggs, after which cooked a multi‑course lunch with the household whereas they informed tales about their 500‑yr roots within the space. Ten generations. You’ll be able to style that continuity.
It’s a 5‑hour expertise with small teams (2–10), transfers obtainable, and dietary‑pleasant choices for those who ask upfront. If you wish to really feel linked to the place as a substitute of simply it, that is your ticket.
Deliver a small thank‑you from house—espresso or chocolate—as a result of by the tip you’ll really feel such as you’re leaving pals.
5) THE BEAUTY — Each Course Is The Proper One
I anticipated fairly. I didn’t count on it in all places.
The Previous City stone is immaculate and glows at nightfall. The islands are a watercolor of coves and church buildings.
The shoreline places on a present even from a automobile window.
After which there are surprises, just like the glass elevator at Bellevue gliding by means of the cliff, or the view the second you step onto your first‑ground balcony that seems like a penthouse trick.
We spent one excellent morning on a yacht cruising to the Elaphiti Islands.
First cease: Koločep for espresso proper on the water. You’ll be able to hike to a bit hilltop if you’d like, however lingering on the café felt precisely proper.
Then Lopud, which is barely bigger however nonetheless small, with a photogenic church up the hill and a handful of tiny retailers.
In summer season, ask your skipper to cease at a cove for a swim; it was a contact too chilly for us, however locals had been nonetheless leaping in and swore the water was round 73°F.
Again on land, we made up for a missed tour by constructing our personal Previous City night.
Jesuit Stairs (you’ll acknowledge them for those who’re a Recreation of Thrones fan), then we slipped by means of a tiny opening within the sea wall to Buza Bar, actually hanging off the cliffs.
Money solely, minimal area, a little bit of a bottleneck getting out and in—however completely value it for sundown beers and that feeling of sitting on the sting of the world.
On the way in which out, we grabbed a snack at Holy Burek, then referred to as it. Uber works effectively right here; most automobiles are licensed taxis, so don’t be shocked in case your experience exhibits up with a roof signal.
One other day we explored Cavtat, a serene, scenic counterpoint to Dubrovnik and my choose for a future keep.
We toured rooms at Resort Supetar (an ALH property), walked the Coastal Promenade, and climbed to the hilltop cemetery for sweeping views.
Later, we returned to the resort’s Backyard Terrace & Bar to pattern appetizers and drinks for the Good Meals Competition—blankets on the chairs, lights twinkling over the harbor. It was a type of easy, excellent nights.
The Good Ship‑Off
For our final night time, we booked Proto in Previous City—broadly thought-about town’s high fish restaurant—and it delivered. In the event you can, reserve the upstairs patio. There’s one thing about waving goodbye to Croatia with seafood in entrance of you and lanterns flickering over the stone. We lingered longer than deliberate—at all times signal—after which walked the lanes another time.
I got here to Dubrovnik anticipating fairly photos. I left with a full pocket book: a pageant dinner I nonetheless take into consideration, a cooking class that felt like household, oyster boats in a glittering bay, a cliff‑facet resort that turned a house base, and new locations to remain subsequent time (Cavtat, I see you).
General? Dubrovnik is unimaginable. I can’t wait to return. When a vacation spot nails luxurious, meals, wine, folks, and sweetness suddenly, it stops being a visit and begins feeling like a without end place.
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